Made it to the cookery school about 20 minutes before it started - no hardship, as it was located in a spice shop, so plenty to look at.
We were called in by name by order of booking. We were the last called, and our host/cook for the next few hours introduced herself - Anne, born and bred (white)NO. She gave us a quick precis of the culinary history of NO. While this was happening, an entree of what the American's call 'biscuits' - a scone basically. Accompanying this was a sweet sauce, made from molasses and brown sugar - similar to Ruebenkraut if you know it.
The next three hours were spent learning how to cook gumbo, jambalya, pina colada bread pudding & pralines. Included, of course, was being able to sample all this delicious food. This being the US, 'sample' was more than adequate and we left full. Well worth $29! The next half hour was spent in the shop for 2 reasons - presents and because it was raining heavily.
Back out onto Decateur, we went for a walk through the French Market, which is at one end of the FQ, close to the quay, followed by catching the tram along the waterfront to Canal Street. This last road is the centre of the commercial area of NO - big store names, hotels etc.
Walking back to the flat, still feeling full for a bit of a rest. Again, eating and shopping can get quite tiring.
Around 6 we walked back into FQ and popped into Lafitte's on the way past - me with Kentucky bourbon and B with Jack & coke. Great atmosphere inside, and had the look of a really old English pub - open, crooked beams, exposed brick walls etc. Then we aimed for Mr. B's, a restaurent recommended by Anne for the best BBQ shrimp in town. While we didn't try any other BBQ shrimp, I'd be surprised if anything got close to these, as they were absolutely fantastic. Whole prawns (that needed shelling + bibs) in a roux-based pepper and bbq sauce, together with french bread to mop up the liquid, washed down with more jack and coke & bourbon.
Finished our food and jumped in a cab to the Candle Light Lounge around 8; this turned out to be about 2 hours too early, but never mind. Cover charge (entry fee) was $10, but this also included a bowl of gumbo or two if you got peckish. This place was the NO version of a social club - run for the community by the community - unpretentious and friendly.
The Treme brass band were excellent - the band leader said it approximately 1/3 of the full band (6 on stage), and treated us to a rendition of the theme tune from the HB show 'Treme'. Seeing as it was the same guys who played it on that show, it was pretty damn good, as was it all. The lead singer had a voice as gravelly as Luis Armstrong, and just as good in our opinions. B did a lot of dancing and was chuffed to bits when complimented on dancing by an old black lady. Sent her home with a grin on her face.
No comments:
Post a Comment